It’s an understatement to say that butter is an essential ingredient in baking. It provides fat and flavor in cakes, frostings, and fillings—but have you ever given any thought to what butter you’re using? Most standard American recipes are developed with the assumption that you use American-style butter. But should you consider upgrading your baked goods with European-style butter? Let’s churn through the facts of American vs European butter.
“Not all butters are created equal,” stated Laurent Damiens, global ambassador for the French dairies. “Key features to look for when choosing butter include butterfat content, the culturing process, all-natural ingredients, and quality certifications.” When it comes to baking specifically, the biggest difference between American-style and European-style butters is the butterfat. In general, American butter is 80 percent butterfat compared to 82 percent or more for premium, European-style butter.
“Just those few percentage points make a divine difference,” noted Chef Michelle Palazzo, director of pastry operations at Frenchette in New York and brand spokesperson for Plugrà. “With a bit more fat and thus less water, premium butter is going to [have] a richer and more flavorful result.” Damiens agreed: “You’ll notice a distinct creaminess and richness that simply elevates the flavor profile where frostings become smoother, fillings more decadent, and cakes incredibly tender.”
However, a change in ingredients also means adjusting recipes. “Ideally, you can always change a recipe by adjusting the ingredients by ten percent without fully changing the structure of the cake,” Palazzo explained. But you may need to make slight adjustments: “With higher fat and lower water content, you might want to slightly reduce other liquids in your recipe to maintain the intended consistency,” suggested Damiens. “I would keep adjustments to a minimum at first, and test and learn what will yield the ideal cake for you,” added Palazzo.
Other factors you may want to consider are that higher-fat butter may take longer to soften and incorporate, and cakes may brown faster when baking. Another difference is that many European-style butters are also cultured, which Damiens explained as when “the cream is fermented before churning to create a unique, slightly tangy flavor profile.” Be sure to check labels, because cultured butter will not yield the same flavor profile in a one-to-one swap with American butter.
Of course, upgrading the quality of your ingredients comes at a price. And during uncertain times of inflation, you have to consider where you’ll get the most credit for it. “It really comes down to the recipe and what the desired result is,” Palazzo suggested. While high-fat butter might benefit pound or butter cake, if you make lighter sponge cakes, the butter might be better in other components. “I’d recommend starting with the frosting or filling. This is where the butter’s unique flavor, creamy texture, and high stability shine through the most,” recommended Damiens.
If you decide to upgrade your products, be sure to communicate with your customers so they understand what they are paying for. “Advertising as such can help set the expectation that this item is special and premium because the base of the recipe is a delicious, quality ingredient,” urged Palazzo. Damiens agreed, adding that it’s “appealing to customers who appreciate quality and craftsmanship in their ingredients.” If that sounds like your consumer, European-style butter may be the answer. “It’s a small adjustment, but these little details make a big difference,” said Damiens.
This article originally appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of American Cake Decorating.
